Right now’s perfumery is also known as artificial, versus the classics of yesteryear, which are shrouded in naturalness. A false perception, since it is with the arrival of synthesis that trendy perfumery was born… at the end of the 19th century. Explanations.
The synthetic molecules do not date from yesterday. It's their discovery, in 1860, which makes rock the perfumery in a brand new period. In a society in full technological enlargement, this one is aware of unprecedented progress in natural chemistry, synthesizing artificial supplies, remoted from a plant. Like vanillin, the primary element of vanilla, which may substitute the vanilla bean or improve its presence in a formulation. But in addition coumarin, with its odor of reduce hay, vanilla and almond, extracted from the tonka bean, or C-12 aldehyde, which exists naturally in citrus peel.
These elements enriched the perfumer’s palette with new effects and sketched out, within the Belle Epoque, an avant-garde perfumery. La Fougère Royale d’Houbigant (1882) combines coumarin with lavender, inaugurating the “fern” household. The brand innovated again with Quelques Fleurs (1912), through which a bouquet of flowers is dressed in the metallic and powdery nuances of aldehydes. It was this similar molecule, giving rose and jasmine a brand new radiance, that made N°5 (1921) a hit.
Very trendy for its time, Jicky by Guerlain (1889) is the first perfume to go away a purely figurative fashion, to evolve in the direction of extra abstraction, because of the huge use of synthetic notes.
A posh, refined components, based mostly on a bergamot-lavender-vanillin and coumarin axis, that Jacques Guerlain will increase with a brand new molecule, ethyl-vanillin, for Shalimar (1925).
Since then, perfumers’ creativity has not stopped evolving with the invention of latest molecules. Analysis continues to be innovating at present, creating components from green chemistry with low carbon impression.
Crédits : @Dina Nasyrova – Eva Bronzini – Vladimir Gladkov
& & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & Sophie Normand
L’article THE BEGINNINGS OF MODERN PERFUMERY est apparu en premier sur Galerie Joseph.
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